Bergamot Sunset




Another for the recommended list: Bergamot Station + SaMo Museum of Art. Wandering from gallery to gallery in the sunshine? Yes, please. (These gels were outside a gallery installation-in-progress, but there was plenty of proper art to be found inside, too, of course.) There’s a cafe and a rad paper goods store, too! If only it was still a stop on a trolley running to the ocean in addition to being an art space. Sigh.
Woah, pro-cyclodestrian* signage in WeHo!
(It’s nice when the rights of pedestrians and cyclists are affirmed and the rules of sharing contested space are made explicit—especially since knowing where you can and can’t legally ride on the sidewalk for safety and sanity’s sake in LA County is really complicated.)
*cyclodestrian: (n.) 1) The hybrid category of persons who locomote under their own power, either solely by foot (pedestrian) or aided by two wheels (cyclist). (See: Rare and Endangered Creatures in Southern California.) 2) A second class citizen in LA, given the city’s lacking infrastructure, signage, and policies supporting transportation modes other than the automobile.
More insights into the social topography of Los Angeles…
Oil wells hidden in some of the densest centers of the city: on the campus of Beverly H.S., tucked into the Beverly Center Mall, hidden in the Fairfax Farmer’s Market, inside a huge warehouse on Pico…really fascinating in terms of land use over time, and the shifting values and social meaning that use implies.
I got to thinking more about the abandoned shopping cart phenomenon.
In contrast to shopping carts standing idle, I’ve noticed that there aren’t a great deal of curb finds out here—D and I scored a file cabinet and some framesĀ curbside when someone moved out down the block from us, but the average garbage day is not the delirious dumpster diving dream that it is in New York—people just don’t leave stuff on the curb that often. Instead, this is a major thrift store town: there are 60 Goodwill stores between LA and Riverside counties alone, not to mention the numerous Out-of-the-Closet, National Council of Jewish Women-LA, and other various independent thrift stores dotting the landscape.
So, what gives? Why the explosion of thrift stores and the utter desolation of the sidewalk marketplace, with no goods curbside and shopping carts left idle for weeks?
I puzzled over how a city comes to be a thrift store town versus a curbside town for an embarrassingly long time before it hit me: cars, stupid.
People are not, by and large, on the sidewalks noticing abandoned shopping carts, and those few that are on sidewalks never have to worry about there being enough shopping carts to go around. So why bother hording a shopping cart? And, indeed, why leave a few things on the curb when your car has enabled the accumulation of so much unwieldy stuff that you could get a serious tax break if you drove—once more, in your car—down to the local goodwill instead? (Never mind the fact that there’s probably at least three in walking distance; you’ve clearly got too much to carry, let’s be honest.)
So what do these seemingly unrelated photos have in common? It doesn’t seem like such a stretch to trace the contemporary abandoned shopping cart phenomenon all the way back to the sweeping freeway visions of Robert Moses that turned LA into a city built for cars instead of people, and back further to the oil prospecting frenzy that made cars and freeways a possibility, and farther still to the mentality that sent whole families trekking out west in search, moving, moving, moving towards something better, something different, something disconnected from the ties of the past.
I think it’s pretty wild that ideas become spaces become patterns that shape behavior and create ‘normal.’ Pioneer begets abandoned shopping cart; fascinating.
It’s funny how sometimes you recognize a place only in returning to it. Ah yes, this is how the water tastes here, this is how my skin feels in this place. This is how the air feels, this is what it is to be warm, these are the colors when you fly towards the sunset and step out into a place that is familiar but is not home.
12. Regarding #10 and the curious disjunction between a person’s relative sanity and respectability and the respective visual cues they project: similarly, young, hip-looking, well-dressed persons with new shoes do not wander aimlessly with bags of smelly clothes in the city; nor do such seemingly put-together persons engage in audible conversations with the people in their head on the bus and then switch gears entirely and engage in conversations with the very real persons sitting next to or behind them. Here, apparently, all bets are off. Crazy people who look like sane people may try to talk to you. Watch out.
12b. I have come to certain understandings about when it is and is not okay to permeate a stranger’s bubble and engage them in conversation. These circumstances include but are not limited to:
a. begging their pardon to pass them in a narrow or crowded space
b. engaging in knowing eye-brow raises in response to an unusual public occurrence
c. asking hopelessly confused tourists if they need assistance or offering alternate transit routes to those caught unawares by service changes
These rules, being rather particular to New York and its subway, are clearly unfamiliar to Angelinos, and they cannot be blamed for this.
However, you will note the distinct lack of reference to or implication of engaging strangers in idle, unsolicited, and possibly unwanted conversation as a condoned activity in this list. This is because this does not happen in New York. There is, in fact, an unspoken understanding, parallel to the above list, that includes quite emphatically NOT engaging strangers in idle, unsolicited and possibly unwanted conversation. This is not a matter of unfriendliness, or zenophobia; quite the contrary. It is what makes subway commutes bearable, even pleasant; it allows for safe people-watching; it is, in fact, the foundation of the beautiful, cherished contradiction of New York life: public anonymity. The unfamiliarity of Angelinos to this rule (and the context that birthed it) makes me feel incredibly, incredibly vulnerable in public spaces.
I may need to start wearing a sign. Or maybe a monkey mask.
Pedestrian adventures
(That totally should have been the name of this blog.)
It’s strange to look back on the exuberance of my first post; that has dimmed somewhat in the face of the enormity of my imminent task and the enormity of this city. I overheard someone say, laughingly, “Los Angeles is 99% space!” And I thought, Ah, like an atom; and me, but a humble proton…
…and the trajectory of my orbit through empty space is determined, almost wholly, by the bus system(s). (Oh yes, there’s more than one.Thankfully there’s this site to sort it all out.) I will admit that my foolhardly bipedal idealism has taken a hearty knocking—I was so sure I could bend this city to my will (the song says I can make it anywhere, after all), but this town was just not built for people on their own two feet. Or their own two wheels, for that matter—just look at this terrifying bike lane on Jefferson Boulevard!

That’s FOUR lanes of traffic in either direction, and most of the bike lane is really just gutter. I suppose I should be grateful for any bike lane at all…
Thankfully, most of the time the bus takes me to marvelous places with a minimum of aggravation. Like here:

That’s V with a chai in front of India Sweets and Spices, in Culver City, where we bought paneer and masalas and tea and (gasp!) pillsbury pre-made parathas. Astonishing! (Where have these been all my life? And why don’t they show up on the Pillsbury website??) In the course of our adventure, I learned some Hindi: danya wad is thank you, jeera is cumin, and coriander leaf, mystifyingly enough, is…cilantro.
The bus also took me to the DMV to get my CA license (how’s that for irony?), and to Co-Oportunity, the Santa Monica co-op with a fabulous bulk section (why no bulk section in any of your groceries, Westwood, why? Where else is a girl supposed to get cheap granola and chocolate covered ginger snacks?), and to—best of all—the famed Santa Monica Farmer’s Market, where I bought all this bounty:

…I’m still not sure how I got it all home. And you can’t even see the limes or the corn or the purple potatoes in this shot! I mean just check out that Armenian cucumber—how can you pass a thing like that up?
Fewer exclamations and more properly ethnographic observations to share soon, dear reader. Stay tuned.









